Southern Smoke’s scent surprises: A Foodie Review

A familiar pig chef logo welcomes Southern Smoke visitors

Despite the brisk, sharp 35-degree breeze funneling into the car, we tried to maintain good-dog-parent status by letting our pup ride with the wind in her face on Thursday afternoon. It was lunchtime, but a doctor’s appointment left us just a 20-minute window which meant Ramen noodles would likely be the result with this time frame (and bare pantry at home).

The friendly aroma picked up steam and overpowered the dog breath on its way to my nostril. At first we couldn’t locate the source, when over the pines and out from the trailer we spotted the smoky trail of pulled pork. Nestled next to a large stock of parking lot tenenbaums, the sleek black trailer hosted the familiar barbecue logo with a smiling pig in chef’s garb. With a healthy (or unhealthy) obsession for all things smoked meat, I rationalized that any meal served from a trailer wouldn‘t run our time short.

Owner Chad Boyd opened Southern Smoke BBQ because when he moved to Springfield from southeast Missouri in 1996 he was unable to find the Memphis-style rubbed barbecue he sought. “There was a lot of Kansas City influence in the barbecue around (Springfield), but nothing like what I grew up on.” Boyd says he was raised on Alfred’s, a spot in Kennett, MO where he would post up 3-4 times a week through high school.

One key difference between the styles of barbecue is the sauce. Boyd says Southern Smoke, like Memphis-style puts the emphasis on the meat. “A lot of people tend to poor sauce all over everything. It’s all about quality cuts of meat with a good rub and smoke to bring out the natural flavor of the meat. The sauce should never be overpowering, but just a compliment.” He buys his rubs from a regional supplier, but was very secretive about such information, adding that he creates his own sauce. In the early going, Boyd’s outfit has already had a couple of successful runs at the Sertoma Summer Sizzle to pick up a few pieces of hardware to back its name, including the 2009 People’s Choice Award and first place in the 2008 open category (fifth overall).

Clearly, Southern Smoke doesn’t off much in the way of ambiance – two picnic tables paired with two benches on a gravel parking lot – but food service trailers (excuse me, custom-built mobile kitchens, according to their website) rarely do. Southern Smoke is posted up at the northeast corner of Fremont and Republic Road and offers pulled pork, brisket, hot links, pig tacos and more in varying portions from a lunch sandwich to meat by the pound if it’s going to be that type of party.

Boyd said a physical restaurant is in the plans, but with an eye on the economic climate could be a little bit of time away from settling into a fixed location. “I’d like to open a restaurant at some point, but the more we’ve talked about it, the more we’ve decided to wait a little bit, but I know there’s a strong niche for this kind of barbecue in Springfield.”

Our experience

Pulled Pork Combo from Southern Smoke

It was about 12:40, and we had missed the lunch rush, and after shivering to the window, the lone man running the show offered to bring our order to the car. With the temperature just north of freezing, this was appreciated, but also meant we would be chowing fast-food style in our laps. We each ordered the pulled pork sandwich combo, which includes a side (pit beans, potato salad, slaw, fries, chips and fried okra) and a pickle. I chose the infrequent option of fried okra while the lady had the pit beans (for added romance later). Our total came to $12.80 (pre-tax lunch prices started at $5.99 and topped off at $6.99 per combo) and took less than four minutes to the car.

Southern Smoke gets it right, the barbecue is NOT about the sauce, and accordingly serves their sauce (thick and sweet) on the side. The pork is incredibly tender with a salt-heavy rub geared toward the pork’s flavor (Holy Seasoned Salt, Batman!). As my fiance said: “It’s not for pregnant women or people prone to swelling.” But, what got us excited was the sides. The fried okra was gently battered and a perfect break from the standard French fried sides. Dry or using the sauce as ketchup were each equally satisfying. Simply put, the pit beans were savory and rich with pieces of pulled pork bathing in the flavor. The tender pork played extremely well in the beans and left us smiling.

For lunch, expect to pay around $6/plate ($8-$13 for dinner) and they offer the standard sweet tea/lemonade/soda for washing it all down and is open Tuesday-Saturday from 11 a.m.-7 p.m. (or until they sell out). Visit their website for a complete menu.